Ama Dablam (6,812m) Expedition ( Matterhorn of the Himalayas)

Known as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas,” Ama Dablam presents one of the most technical and aesthetic climbs in Nepal. The expedition combines trekking through stunning Himalayan landscapes with a thrilling ascent via the South-West Ridge, offering panoramic views of Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and more. This prestigious expedition demands extensive technical climbing experience on rock, ice, and exposed ridges, making it a great climb prior to attempting a 7,000 or an 8,000-meter peak.

Ama Dablam (6812 m) is one of the most iconic and beautiful mountains due to its appearance. The mountain possesses long ridges on each side and a hanging glacier at the center, making it resemble a traditional ornament worn by Sherpa women. The ridges are also referred to as the arms of a mother protecting her child and the glacier as an ornament, hence giving the name Ama Dablam, where ‘Ama’; means mother and ‘Dablam’ means the special pendant with the picture of Gods. 

Climbing routes :

The climb follows the regular Southwest Ridge route with three more camps above the base camp. The route from Base Camp to Camp 1 is easy and less demanding but the technicality and difficulty slowly

start rising from Camp 1 to Camp 2 till Camp 3, as climbers need to traverse narrow edges on the ridges with Ice, Rocks, and Snow. The final summit awaits after a steep climb on snow and ice slopes. Despite its difficulty, The peak 15 Adventures’ guide will guide you to the summit perfectly. The route is mesmerizingly picturesque and offers panoramic vistas of the Everest Massif along with Makalu, Cho Oyu, and other peaks in the periphery. 

Training at Basecamp:

Ama dablam Expeditions 2025/26 with Peak fifteen Adventure’s conduct a training at basecamp, which will be conducted by IFMGA Tendi Sherpa. The training like walking on fixed lines, diagonal ascent and descent, traversing, duck walk, classical or flat-footing, handling Oxygen cylinders, using an Ice ax, and Crampons, using walkie talkie and following instructions while climbing will be taught by an expertise.

After the equipment check by guide of peak15 and final preparation done, we shall head towards camp 1 (5700 m) through easy terrain. But the trail gets technical with steep and difficult slopes before a steep ridge and requires tackling a steep slab. 

Before heading for the summit push, we will be acclimatizing by completing the following rotation. We will be heading to Camp I from Base camp and staying overnight at Camp I. The next day we will be heading to Camp II from Camp I & staying overnight at Camp II & return to base camp the next day. Camp 2 is set up at around 5900 m. We will need to climb past steep ridges and snowy slopes with the help of fixed ropes set up by our team. 

The summit climb is an easy one. We wake up early, have our breakfast, and climb up on snowy slopes mixed with rocks above Camp 2. 

We will ascend the peak of marvelous Ama Dablam (6812m) and return back to the Base Camp. The following day will be allocated for cleaning up and preparation to leave.